Route: Emmons Winthrop Glacier Route via Camp Schurman.
Elevation gain: 10,000 ft to Columbia Crest.
Difficulties and Hazards: Grade I or II, strenuous, 30 to 40 degree snow and ice slopes, glacier travel, altitude.
Time: Four days. (Seven to nine hours from Camp Schurman to summit. Three to four hours for descent.)
The Approach to High Camp
Start at the White River Campground (4,400 ft) and take the Glacier Basin trail (3.3 miles) to Glacier Basin Camp at 6,000 ft. From the basin, follow the climbers’ path up the moraine to the snout of the Inter Glacier at 6,800 ft. Ascend the Inter Glacier, negotiating crevasses as needed to Camp Curtis at 9,000 ft on Ruth Ridge, which is on your left hand (southerly) side. A small climbing camp exists here. From Camp Curtis, descend 100 feet to the Emmons Glacier on a climbers path of loose rock. Once on the Emmons, continue to climb the glacier to Camp Schurman (9,500 ft.) Camp Schurman has toilet facilities, blue bag barrels and a ranger hut with emergency radio. There is a limit of 48 people, first come first served.
The Route
From Emmons Flats, ascend the glacier to “the Corridor,” a prominent glacial feature that rises higher than the rest of the Emmons. Access the Corridor from 10,000 ft to 10,300 ft depending on the year. The Corridor tops out at 11,200 ft. At this point, the route becomes steeper (30 to 40 degrees) and will take a variety of directions depending on the year, glacier movement and snowfall. It is not uncommon to traverse over on the Winthrop and ascend its shoulder to the Bergschrund. This crevasse is the usually the highest on the mountain and may involve down climbing and belays to cross. Access the crater rim at 14,250 ft. It’s a short southwesterly walk from here to the true summit and climber register.
The Descent
Descend the route you climbed. The afternoon sun weakens snow-bridges and makes crossings more hazardous.
